Playstation as a CD playback device?

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Graeme
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#16

Post by Graeme »

Ah right, didnt know thats what you ment :)

Thanks.
Graeme
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#17

Post by Graeme »

Well, i picked up a 1002 at a bootsale today so we'll see how it goes.

Ill check it works, see how it sounds, then ill leave it powered up and see what happens.

After a few days ill rip into it and report and changes is sound.

Ive got a technics slp 1200 and a marantz cd67se to compare it too.

Ill let you know how i get on.
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al newall
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#18

Post by al newall »

Well, i got as far as adjusting the laser voltages today, they were pretty close anyway.
Might get the output stage bypassed later.
Just waiting for another bout of enthusiasm. :oops:
Much to learn there is.
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al newall
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#19

Post by al newall »

Tonights effort does away with the existing output stage.

I removed 4 surface mount electrolytics, which isolates the original stages. Then replaced the first 2 caps after the DAC with a pair of 4.7uf Black Gates (necessary dc blockers). The output from these is hardwired to some interconnect cables, which go direct to the amp with a 22K resistor to ground.

Question is.... do i have wait another three days for the thing to warm up again?

Maybe not.
After two hours the soundstage is bigger, still lacking in depth though.
Dynamics are better but not quite what i'm used to yet.
The amount of detail this thing unearths is quite impressive, better than before the mod. Possibly better than my DVD/Lampydac combo. :shock:

Last night it was a relief to return to my DVD player with its room filling sound; now the gap between the two has closed.

The final upgrade would be a linear supply to replace the SMPS. This supposedly improves matters further, including dynamics. Well quite likely but can i be bothered?

Not sure yet.
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Graeme
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#20

Post by Graeme »

Go on, you know you want to :)

I assume a decent power supply will remove the nead to leave it permenently powered up too?
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al newall
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#21

Post by al newall »

I'm not sure of the reason for this extended warm up. This could be a pain if you're trying to compare with other players.
However, it didn't take long tonight, before it sounded good, and it was disconnected for a couple days.

Trouble is...... building a new supply means throwing both money and time at it. So far its cost me nothing.
All i can say is that it's worth trying some mods if you've got one of these, or can get one cheaply.
Might take me some time to establish exactly how good it is.
Much to learn there is.
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al newall
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#22

Post by al newall »

Suppose it wouldn't cost much to throw a couple of power supplies together. I might even have some transformers that'll do to test the theory.

Right now i've got to take up the laminate flooring in daughter #2s bedroom and also the flooring in the bathroom. We've just been told we are having a new CH boiler fitted, with 24 hours notice.

Just when you think you've got some spare time......
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al newall
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#23

Post by al newall »

Well. i got around to building a pair of linear power supplies for the PS1.

Two separate lines supply 7.6v to the motor and 3.6v to the circuitry.

Image

If i like what it does i might build the whole thing into a box. Should have time to try it out later tonight.
It already equals my old faithful DVD/Lampydac in terms of making an enjoyable sound. But only when it's connected to the Lampizator tube out put stage. Without this, it's a reasonable but nothing special CD player.
Last edited by al newall on Fri Dec 19, 2008 11:46 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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al newall
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#24

Post by al newall »

The dual regulated power supply that i spent all weekend building, works superbly. :)

But not with the Playstation. :oops:
Despite feeding the PS1 with exactly the same voltage as the original onboard SMPS, it refuses to work.

Intriguing and frustratiing.
The old DVD player suddenly seems quite appealing.
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Graeme
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#25

Post by Graeme »

Odd.

I know voltages have to be 'cock on' or it wont work, but you already say the voltages are right :?
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al newall
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#26

Post by al newall »

I measured 7.54v and 3.53v on the pins of the SMPS. The new supply is adjustable and so i can provide these exact voltages.
Doing this shouldn't affect the settings for the laser intensity etc, so at the moment i can't see where the problem is.

I'm afraid i'm not gifted with unlimited patience, so i might be looking for other uses for the new supply very soon.
Much to learn there is.
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al newall
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#27

Post by al newall »

So the troublesome power supply is now up and running.
Definitely another step in the right direction. Generally a more transparent sound.
Interestingly, the laid back character that the stock player produced is still there, but now with massive amounts of detail.

Seem to have more deep bass now, though this could be due in part to the fact that i just used the speakers for a couple of disco parties. Maybe loosened up the bass drivers a bit.

Next step will be to put the whole lot into a new box, with an integrated tube output stage. Too close to Christmas now.

Most of the excitement about the PS1 seems to be justified. If you can't afford a classy CD player, this is a viable alternative.
Much to learn there is.
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#28

Post by Andrew »

What was the problem with the linear supplies in the end?

-- Andrew
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al newall
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#29

Post by al newall »

Something to do with the second regulation stage.(BD243C)

http://feuerbacher.net/DogBreath/PS1/Li ... U_V2_5.jpg

Haven't got to the bottom of it yet, Andrew. But it works fine without.
Can't find anything wrong with the way i put it together.
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#30

Post by Andrew »

That's a capacitor multiplier, at a quick glance I can't see anything wrong with it. Perhaps your transistor was dead. I don't know that type, the TIP150 from the usual sources works well and is a Darlington pair in single case and works very well. Try another BC transistor first tho'.

As I understand it, the circuit is simple enough, the potential divider of the R and zener gives a fixed DC voltage on the base of the transistor, this forces transistor to clean up the line voltage, the base is bypassed to AC via the big 47uF cap so its getting almost pure DC from the cap zener combo, the effect of the cap is multiplied by the transistor, hence cap multiplier; the 20R acts, I think, like a grid stopper.

-- Andrew
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