New build...big bass from a pint pot?

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Reffc
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#1 New build...big bass from a pint pot?

Post by Reffc »

Just tinkering with various designs recently, I decided to have a pop at another 2-way, this time using some very high quality drivers (Scanspeak revelator mid woofer and Illuminator tweeter).

Don't want to go down the road of choked port design, so optimised cab volume and port for the best compromise I could RE bass response to volume whilst trying to keep bass nicely balanced.

After various cab designs were tried, I settled on the one shown on the prototype photos below. Sloped front baffle is for time alignment purposes, although how much difference this makes in practice is questionable as relative phase is usually where I try and optimise crossovers. In this case, I've used 12dB/Octave slopes in my usual approach of flattening impedance on the woofer, partly to try and compensate for quite a lift in acoustic response between 1 and 2KHz and partly so I know more precisely where I am with impedance!

It's a far cry from a "cook-book" design requiring roll-off of the woofer a little earlier (that rising impedance) and playing around with values until the deepest notch was found before reversing tweeter polarity for a nice flat acoustic response. (LR2)

This tweeter has a relatively high power handling and a commendably low Fs, so a low crossover point was possible helping with off axis performance and to limit any mid woofer beaming. Bass response is really quite astonishing for a cabinet and driver of this size. Port tuning has been kept low enough to limit driver excursion above resonance.

Resultant sound is very clean and balanced. It sounds more like a floor stander of three times the size! Overall quite happy with the end result.

I'll add more photos once I've completed the veneering and grille covers (magnetically attached). I'll be building another pair in a nice Curly maple finish as a demo pair.

Crossover values for the tweeters were altered to raise impedance, as with traditional L-pad values, impedance was too low for most amps to cope, so I've raised it to a flat-ish nominal 6 Ohm load across the board.

The Illuminator is really quite a good tweeter. I had toyed with the idea of the SB Acoustics Satori tweeter too and may still try that one at some stage as it has a very nice smooth response. Probably not up to the standard of the Illuminator tweeter though.

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With drivers in place (mocked up)

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Prototype crossovers (made up of what I have in the parts bin. Final versions require a lower DCR LF inductor and some tidying up):

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chris661
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#2

Post by chris661 »

Cool!

Any measurements so far?

FWIW, I'd consider rounding the baffle edges to eliminate diffraction a bit. Would love to hear these in person, though.

Chris
Reffc
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#3

Post by Reffc »

Hi Chris

I have some initial measurements which I've included below...First Raw response, then 1/3 octave smoothed which glosses over some of the anomalies but at least indicates roughly where they're headed! LF is not that accurate for the sub 30Hz region as the speaker was too close to wall boundaries. I was just impatient to see what the summed looked like! Sounds great but there was initially a slight issue with a few crossover values, but they've been tweaked and it's taken about 3 attempts to finalise the crossovers, so pretty happy with how they are now.

I've included early pics of the veneering. This first pair is in American Crown Cut Oak. I'll be adding these to my portfolio for demo and sale, so with a few rough edges (literally) smoothed off intend to start building more pairs.


Raw response: calibrated mic at 1m, mic at tweeter level. A little too close to boundaries so this will have affected the response:

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Third Octave smoothed:

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Cabs now veneered awaiting final finishing:

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Ali Tait
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#4

Post by Ali Tait »

Very nice!
Reffc
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#5

Post by Reffc »

Veneering now completed, cabinets oiled and all speaker components re-assembled:

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Grilles are magnetic..magnets buried under veneer to keep things nice and neat.

Sounding very good indeed now.
awkwardbydesign
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#6

Post by awkwardbydesign »

In my experience, burying the magnets under the veneer attracts minute iron dust, and leaves a grey mark fairly quickly.
BTW, are these a commercial product?
Reffc
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#7

Post by Reffc »

I've used this method for years now and only ever had a problem with discolouration of the first pair I did. I'd rather have a little discolouration than use fugly plastic bobbins, so will carry on using this method which is a neat way of attaching the grilles. I guess you could fit magnets to the external face and stand the grilles off slightly.

As to the second part of the question, I think you knew the answer before you posted :wink: . These are speakers I've designed and built and they will feature in my RFC line up, as in "made to order."
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shane
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#8

Post by shane »

I suppose you could just put a washer under the veneer and put the magnets in the grill...
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Reffc
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#9

Post by Reffc »

shane wrote:I suppose you could just put a washer under the veneer and put the magnets in the grill...
Hi Shane

that's not a bad idea at all. We have tried that in the past but you have to be careful depending on the veneer chosen as some can have a chemical reaction if the ferrous washer isn't first coated. Coating the washer, or small plate (in our case small rectangular plates) with epoxy helps to prevent issues though. I go for the magnets just to achieve a nice strong fitting as once you introduce the veneer thickness to a plate, plus allow for epoxy skim etc, it's surprising how even a millimetre or two weakens the bond. I could go up to a higher magnet strength so worth reconsidering I guess.
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