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#16

Posted: Mon Dec 17, 2007 9:57 am
by adhoc
Just confirmed that my idler wheel is not sticking at all - a very light tap and it spins freely for more than a minute.

The idler wheel seems to be free of bumps which could cause wow/flutter. Running the TT without the platter on and a strong single-point light source illuminating the wheel overhead shows no "waving" of the shadow cast by it against a fixed reference point - in this case a line drawn in pencil on the TT.

The motor is fine as well - no clicks/noises save for a very soft whirring, and it's not running any hotter than I remember.

Thank goodness I kept my LP-12 around as a backup - it's doing an admirable job now.

#17

Posted: Mon Dec 17, 2007 10:05 am
by adhoc
As a point-of-reference, it takes a LOT more effort to rotate the spindle than it does to rotate the motor spindle.

#18

Posted: Mon Dec 17, 2007 10:32 am
by Paul Barker
Have you tried what Darren suggested?

#19

Posted: Mon Dec 17, 2007 10:34 am
by adhoc
What solvents should I use? I'm guessing soap+water won't quite cut it?

#20

Posted: Mon Dec 17, 2007 1:50 pm
by shane
shane wrote:It's not going to be the bearing, so what else could it be?
Shows how much I know... :D

#21

Posted: Mon Dec 17, 2007 8:32 pm
by steve s
is the bearing itself dry

i dont know how warm it is in australia

but a simple bearing can soon dry out depending on how it is designed
especially a close fitting one..there can be oil in it but not at the top of the bearing..

my Oracal belt drive had a similair problem, there is a close fitting nylon bearing that dried out causing it to run slow
when i used to make bearings i always put oilways in them or ensured the oil level was very high ..
the oil needs to be the right grade for the bearing clearance and temp it is running at.. i'm sure darren has covered that..

....but if it has not been used for a while.. worth a check

just a thought.. i'm probaby miles out

steve